Belarus: An Unexpectedly Delightful Destination
Jo Ann Mayer tells about her experience of travelling around Belarus.
08.10.2012 / 17:48
As you travel across the country, a plain lined with forests and small villages, you see perfect white clouds like those observed in a Marc Chagall painting. You do NOT see the post-Soviet era of prosperity that you see in other ex-Soviet countries. There is little advertising or glaring neon lights, no graffiti, and very little litter. It's a very welcome change and pleasant experience.
Arrival in Minsk
Minsk, the capital of Belarus, is in the center of the country making it a central location for excursions to other cities. A visa is mandatory for most visitors (including US and EU residents). When applying for a visa you need to state the hotels where you will be staying and have the agency that booked your hotel prepare an invitation letter to accompany your visa application. The visa will only be issued for the days of a documented hotel reservation. No extra days are allowed. Upon arrival at the Minsk airport you need to purchase mandatory medical insurance which costs $5/person/week. English is not widely spoken, but people are friendly and willing to help.
The country
Belarus is known as “the lungs of Europe” because of its incredible amount of forest (over 30% of the country is forested) and marshlands. Belarus lost over 30% of its population during World War II and remains very patriotic. They celebrate Independence Day on the date they were liberated from the Nazis by the Red Army, not independence from Russia. It is not overrun with tourists and offers a look into remnants of its Soviet past.
Expenses
The exchange rate as of this writing is 8799 ruble/USD. Our 270,000 ruble taxi from the airport to the hotel (approximately 30 minutes), was only about $34. We stayed at a 4 star hotel in Minsk which was expensive, $220 per night, and was certainly not up to 4 star standards. Hotels in Viciebsk and Hrodna were much more reasonable ($100 per night for a 3 star hotel located in the center of the city). Hotels further out are less expensive. We found the food good and very reasonable. Draniki, potato pancakes, is the traditional Belarusian dish. From Minsk we traveled to Viciebsk (north-east) and Hrodna (west) by bus. The cost was around $10 for each four hour ride, but be warned the minibuses are not air conditioned.
Domestic diversity
Minsk definitely reflects the Stalin style with its broad streets and numerous monuments.
Viciebsk is the childhood home of Marc Chagall. The museum of his home and the Chagall Art Center, which displays some of his early work, are both worth a visit. Old Town runs along the river with cobblestone pedestrian streets filled with restaurants and beer gardens. Several Russian Orthodox churches are located in the Old Town area. On Sundays during the summer, you will find wedding parties celebrating in the parks.
Hrodna, on the western border, was not destroyed during World War II so you can experience old Belarus.
Many of the villages have brightly painted houses and make a colorful setting against the green scenery along the main roads.
Belarus has four UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Mir and Niasvizh Castles are a day trip from Minsk. The Bielaviezhskaja Pushcha National Park is near Brest, in the south west corner of the country. Brest is worth a visit if you are a World War II history enthusiast.