“You can earn enough for an apartment in Minsk in a year.” A Belarusian woman told how she went to work in the city of the future
Katsiaryna didn't plan to move to the Middle East; she had never even traveled there. But suddenly, instead of an invitation to another date on Tinder, she received a job offer. So, unexpectedly for herself, she found herself in Saudi Arabia, in the city of the future in the middle of the desert, writes "Onliner".
“As a child, I lived in a closed town in Nigeria”
Our acquaintance with Katsiaryna's story began a little far back. In 2021, she had just returned to an American IT company from maternity leave — she worked there as an HR specialist, building a team. She wasn't planning to change anything: a good job and a comfortable life in Belarus fully satisfied her. But personal circumstances intervened: Katya and her husband decided to divorce. Over time, the girl became ready to "enter the world of virtual dating."
“Literally on the first date, I received a job offer. You know, those standard conversations about what everyone does. I tell him I work in HR, and immediately I get an offer to headhunt someone. The same thing happened on the second date. That man had a request for a salary increase. I coached him, gave him advice, and after a while, a message came from him: 'Friend, send your resume.' At that moment, I remembered that he works in Saudi Arabia on a big project. I thought: why not? My experience was relevant, I was scheduled for an interview — and right after it, they were ready to snatch me up.”
At that moment, there was no talk of any relocation; the new endeavor became an interesting side job for Katya. But literally, in one day, she lost her main job — and accepting the invitation to go to Saudi Arabia seemed like a perfectly logical decision.
“Before this, I had never been to that part of the world; I hadn't even traveled to Dubai. But as a child, along with my parents, I lived in Nigeria. My father is an energy engineer; we, as a family, followed him there, and at approximately the same age as my children are now, I lived in a closed town.”
Now we can finally find out where Katya, at a conscious age, traveled almost 6,000 kilometers to. She went to work on the ambitious "Neom" project. This is a futuristic megaproject that began to be created in 2017 on the shores of the Red Sea in Saudi Arabia. Its goal was to prove that the country lives not only on oil. The project was allocated a budget of approximately $500 billion.
The most famous part of "Neom" was to be the city "The Line": two enormous skyscrapers 170 kilometers long and 500 meters high. According to the project, this city would have no cars, making it the most ecological in the world.
But that's not all. They also planned to build a floating industrial city, a year-round ski resort in the middle of the desert, and a luxurious elite island resort. This year, the project was significantly simplified.
Sindalah — a luxury resort, the first opened Neom project
But 2021 saw the peak of its growth. The team scaled literally every day — there was plenty of scope for Katsiaryna's work.
Initially, she was the only Belarusian among all employees; later, another guy joined. Formalizing documents was a quest with many hurdles; the visa application system is one of the most bureaucratized in the world. For example, it took Katya almost half a year to move her children. But in her practice, there were cases where the entire relocation process took a full year.
“They completely closed the bank branch to make me a card”
Katya moved to a new country with her two children — her elder son was 8, the younger one just 2. The situation was complicated by the fact that Katya's elder child has autism.
“When I say I lived in Saudi Arabia, many imagine something like Dubai, with luxury conditions and skyscrapers. But I was literally in the desert in a closed settlement. With the people you work with, you eat together, live nearby, and spend your free time.”
Katya says that at that time, about 4,000 people worked at "Neom", 80% of whom were expats. It turned out to be a real country within a country. Saudis who joined the team were from the local elite, most had studied abroad, so they were understanding of foreigners' lifestyles. However, residents of nearby towns reacted to newcomers with great surprise every time.
“I was in shock when I came to open a bank account. Bank employees simply closed the doors from the inside so that local residents couldn't enter while they dealt with my card. They have a special attitude towards visiting women. There are restaurants that, if a woman comes, are ready to close an entire hall for her. If you respect the culture, it's super safe there.
I have never seen such respectful treatment from colleagues as from Saudis, and I have extensive experience. While an expat from Europe might completely shout or show rudeness, a Saudi would never in their life allow themselves to raise their voice at a female colleague. If, God forbid, someone sees such a thing, they will immediately be put on a "blacklist." They treat women very tenderly and professionally there. In general, Saudi Arabia is currently at the peak of the women's movement; they are supported and promoted. Having Saudi women on staff is super prestigious.”
Overall, the local corporate culture impressed the interviewee.
“Honestly, when I first started working remotely, I had cultural shock. I didn't understand at all how the corporate world in Saudi Arabia was structured. I had bosses in Israel, in America, in Germany — everywhere had its own traditions. But there are rules: you send an email, and you should receive a reply within 24-48 hours. There, however, you send an email, and they don't reply for a week, two... You send ten more — and silence. When you work remotely, this is simply killing. You don't understand what's happening.
The Line exhibition
And only when I arrived there and personally met the people I had been corresponding with did I understand everything. To resolve issues, you need to come, talk, and drink tea together. A lot is tied to personal contacts. If you are some unknown person to them, they will ignore you. Given that everyone has 600 emails in their inbox, if they don't know you, nothing will happen. By the way, Saudis really like working with Slavs. Surprisingly, we have a similar cultural code.
The team even coined the phrase "Kate-magic": everyone was surprised at how I managed to solve problems. And I, no matter how hot it was, simply went to the neighboring office where the decision-makers were sitting and spoke with them in person. Belarusian zephyr and Belarusian chocolates also always saved the day. There hasn't been a single problem that Belarusian sweets wouldn't solve," Katya laughs.
“Saving up for an apartment in Minsk in a year is easy”
According to the interviewee, Neom paid excellently: they had to find a way to attract high-class specialists to the desert. Saving up for an apartment in Minsk in a year was very easy. In addition to the salary, there was a system of bonuses and savings.
Katya worked on a project that dealt with food: growing cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce in greenhouses, and fish in the Red Sea. Plus, there was a division that focused on plant protein. Specialists also worked on a personalized nutrition system, taking into account the genome and individual needs.
“It is very difficult to find specialists with experience in growing such tomatoes in the desert using new technologies. There are actually very few of them. And those who have such experience already live in very good conditions; their children go to good schools. Luring them into the desert, forcing them to completely change their lifestyle, was an incredibly difficult task. It's fine if you come alone, but what if you come with a family…
Many saw videos about "Neom" and were convinced that everything was already built. They came for an interview — and all around was just desert. It caused a disconnect. Everything had to be built from scratch. There was no water, no electricity, no internet — everything from zero. A peculiar challenge.
Newcomers' camp
You're not just starting a new job — you're completely changing your life. People who came from European countries found it very difficult to integrate into this compound — a small village with no amenities: no supermarkets, no restaurants, no accustomed life.”
According to Katya, the main category of employees were romantics who were passionate about changing the world. For example, her boss dreamed of feeding everyone. He believed that if you can grow food in the desert, then no matter what cataclysms occur, humanity will survive.
However, despite the enormous efforts invested, the megaproject was too ambitious. Some directions were simply closed down.
“Imagine: you're working at the limits of your capabilities, investing your soul, time, health, and you'll never see the results. Almost no one had experience working on such large-scale projects, so there were many dead-end development paths. It was easier for me. The results of my work were evident: people arrived, the team grew, from 8 people we became 100.”
“No need to wash, clean, or cook — just work”
We also discussed the living conditions in the middle of the desert. As the heroine explains, absolutely everything is organized for the workers: accommodation, office, food, cleaning.
“Everything is set up so you work non-stop. You generally can't go anywhere, to put it bluntly. Around you is desert, the Red Sea. The only entertainment where I spent most of my free time was on a plane. To avoid going crazy in a confined space, you need to get out. Everyone knows each other; every day you see the same people. I joined the project at its peak; the schedule was absolutely unregulated. There was no boundary between work and home at all because you literally live at your job. Psychologically, this was the most difficult thing for me.”
Newcomers' camp
Initially, there were two camps on the territory, in the most direct sense: two-story houses maximally resembled children's recreation spots.
“In the newcomers' camp, everyone interacts very closely. You hear your neighbors snore, you go to the shared dining hall with them. Essentially, you only have a bed, a bathroom, a wardrobe, and a kettle. And yet, big names in the industry arrive, people accustomed to good conditions in Europe or America. For many, this was a real challenge. Especially since during the boom period, some had to live like this for half a year. The camp couldn't keep up with the increasing number of workers.
Dining hall
In the second camp, there were offices and more comfortable accommodation — single-story houses. If you come alone, you have one room: a bedroom, a toilet, and a small kitchen with a living room; if with family, like me, — two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, and a living room.”
Katya emphasizes again: all conditions are geared towards you being able to devote all your time to work. Twice a week, clothes are taken to the laundry. Food is unlimited; you don't need to cook yourself.
Family homes
“The choice was staggering: shrimp, lobsters were commonplace. I always warned those planning to move: gaining 10 kilograms is basic. Firstly, people eat more under stress. Secondly, the temptation is truly great. A lot of food was thrown away. Beef Wellington was taken for the dogs. Drinks were unlimited. But over time, they did introduce a wallet system: points were accrued that could be used to pay, at least to somewhat reduce food waste.”
The interviewee is confident that it's an ideal place for families. The social package includes everything: nursery, kindergarten, and school. Even if children remain in another country, the company covers their education. Female employees can return to work even the day after childbirth: nursery conditions are provided for infants. In kindergarten, a group has a maximum of 15 children, with three to four nannies for them. All communication is in English. According to Katya, both her sons learned the language excellently. Hiring a Filipina nanny to live in is also quite inexpensive — $300-400. So, you truly don't have to worry about daily life.
“When we returned to Minsk, my son had to go through a commission to confirm his autism. And they asked him: 'Do you have friends, what are their names?' He started listing: 'Mohammed, Abdulaziz.' The employees began to smile. I had to explain that it was true. He has friends from all over the world — from Slovakia to Australia. This is truly an experience that wonderfully broadens one's horizons. Representatives from 107 countries worked on the project. We had a 'Parade of Nations' celebration, and it looked incredible.”
“The company paid for employees' two flights a month across Saudi Arabia”
We clarified: what can one do in their free time? The first thought is the gym. The company quickly realized: the faster the number of employees grew, the more gyms were needed. In addition, several swimming pools and jacuzzis were built with separate zones for men and women.
The main natural entertainment is the Red Sea. Katya admits: the best snorkeling of her life was exactly there. Fish, turtles, corals — and all of this is available at any moment; you just get in the car and drive to the beach. But on this note, the "cultural program" generally ends; there aren't many special entertainments.
Given the project's complexity, access to it was restricted. Guests receive passes that are verified at several levels. Furthermore, it is forbidden to shoot videos, share photos, or post them on Instagram. Even on her personal account, Katya tried not to show the community: there could be sanctions for doing so.
“You can, of course, go outside the territory — otherwise, you'd just go crazy. Every other weekend, I flew somewhere — nearby or a little further away, to get a change of scenery. The "Neom" company paid for employees' two flights a month across Saudi Arabia. There are many holidays there, especially after Ramadan. Everyone starts vacationing, and wherever you go — India, Sri Lanka — you'll meet someone from the project everywhere. This is the only time of year when they truly don't work. Because if you take a vacation in the summer, you still work online, always connected. But religious holidays are the only week when you can turn off your phone and relax.”
We couldn't help but ask: how expensive is it in the country itself?
“The same coffee and burger in Saudi Arabia and here can cost roughly the same, and sometimes it's even more expensive here. In Saudi Arabia, there's a food cult, many luxury establishments with rich cuisine. Naturally, it's many times more expensive there. But if you wish, you can eat for a dollar. The influence of American culture is strongly felt in Saudi Arabia; there's a lot of fast food.
If you want to buy good products — tomatoes that smell like tomatoes, not plastic strawberries — it will be very expensive. Almost nothing is grown in the country; everything is imported: carrots from Australia, potatoes from Egypt, something from Europe. But if you wish, you can find anything — it's a matter of price. Buckwheat, for example, is $10 for 500 grams.
Life in the community
The most modest hotel room in the capital, Riyadh, will cost $300. This is a regular chain hotel. There are, of course, hotels where visiting Indians and Pakistanis live, but I would not advise a woman to stay there alone. By the way, unmarried couples cannot live in the same room, especially in simple hotels. Raids even happen. Only very expensive chains might turn a blind eye to this.”
But significant reasons to go on such a mini-trip do arise. For example, Katya's dream came true: she attended a Metallica concert for the first time in her life. Each year, the number of such large-scale cultural events increases. Locals adore amusement parks — mostly indoor, of course.
Riyadh
“Summer temperatures reached +54”
The climate in Saudi Arabia is another test of endurance.
“Where we lived, the Red Sea was nearby, so it was a little easier. Although in summer, the water temperature is such that it feels like you're swimming in soup. There isn't such arid heat there as in Riyadh, where it can be 50-60 degrees in summer. Our maximum was 52-54. Even that you can get used to! Still, it's quite difficult in summer, especially for children. It's hard to walk a hundred meters on the street; everyone tries to move only by transport — from the air conditioner in the office to the air conditioner in the car.”
How to adhere to Eastern traditions with such weather? Since "Neom" is a state within a state, you can move relatively freely within its territory: teenagers wear shorts and tops. But Katsiaryna, who works with locals, always dressed modestly: a long dress, elbows, and shoulders always covered by fabric. As soon as you step outside the gates — to the airport, to the nearest city for bureaucratic matters — you absolutely must cover yourself completely: local residents in this region are not accustomed to tourists.
A certain "physical" distance in communication was also observed. You cannot touch Saudi colleagues; women cannot shake hands.
Private parties in the desert
— The culture is truly mixed. On one hand, there's Neom's progressive level; on the other, deep respect for traditions. Many think: "We're so modern here, no one will notice." But Saudis are very protective of their culture. Even if there are no strict official requirements, it is advisable to know the rules and behave very respectfully. For example, during Ramadan, the daily schedule changes. Breakfast and lunch are available for expats, but drinking water or coffee in the office is forbidden: it's a great sign of disrespect.
— And can you make friends or start relationships at work?
— The first impression is that this is a Muslim country where any relationships outside of marriage are punishable by law. However, liberalization is currently underway: locals are already starting to date without parental permission. Nevertheless, in corporate culture, especially in a small, compact compound, your reputation precedes you. You are being watched. Therefore, personal life should be outside the compound, preferably in another city, or even in another country.
By the way, that's how Katya met her future husband. He came to work in Saudi Arabia from Algeria 20 years ago, working for the largest mobile communication company, not at "Neom." They met on a dating app. The wedding took place in Georgia.
“My husband lives in Riyadh. And after five years of travel, flights, and journeys, it feels so good to be home. Now I'm in a period where I don't believe in work-life balance — it doesn't exist. There are periods: either career is a priority, or family. Currently, I'm in a family period (Katya returned to Belarus during her pregnancy with her third child. — Onliner's note), I want to enjoy motherhood. I don't predict where my husband and I will live together. With my experience, I know I'll survive anywhere. But right now, I feel great here, in Belarus.
When I was leaving, many were shaking their heads: 'Where are you going with two children to the desert, to the Saudis?' But I believe that enthusiasm, the ability to take risks, and being in the right place at the right time will become the main skills for the coming years. I hope my story inspires someone. I am 40 years old — and life is starting anew.”
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