"Bulbianyia" — what a brand was lost! Here's what they cooked there and what Vladimir Vysotsky and the KGB chairman remembered about them
The appearance of a new establishment "Dranichnaya №1" in Minsk caused a wave of outrage. Belarusians saw Soviet nostalgia and glamorous images from Moscow's Patriks in its concept. Meanwhile, once upon a time, in every major city of Belarus, there were establishments that cooked only potato dishes and explicitly used national flavor.
Café "Bulbianyia" on Independence Avenue in Minsk in its last years of operation
The Language Question
Not everything is smooth with the name of the new establishment. The adjective "dranichny" (дранічны) indeed exists in the Belarusian language — but according to dictionaries, it's not related to draniki (potato pancakes), but to construction. It is formed from the word "dranitsa" (драніца), which denotes thin wooden boards for roofing or for cladding walls before plastering.
With potatoes, such polysemy would not have arisen, but today finding a true "Bulbianyia" (potato cafe) is almost impossible. Although once upon a time, signs of establishments with such a name, serving almost exclusively potato dishes, could be seen in all major cities of Belarus.
They were in Minsk, and in regional centers, and in district centers. This was not a chain in the modern sense, but in Soviet times there was a fashion for establishments specializing in one specific product: tea houses, coffee shops (in the sense of establishments serving coffee drinks), pelmeni shops, chebureki shops, vareniki shops, blini shops, pirozhok shops, shashlik shops, sandwich shops — and, of course, "Bulbianyia" (potato cafes).
The term "Bulbianyia" (бульбяная) in Belarusian spelling firmly took root in the Russian language as a designation for a snack bar with national flavor — on par with "khinkalnaya" (хинкальная) or "khachapurnaya" (хачапурная). In essence, this format became one of the most recognizable gastronomic brands of Soviet Belarus.
"Bulbianyia" on the Avenue
Café "Bulbianyia" on Lenin Avenue in Minsk
Probably the most famous "Bulbianyia" was located in Minsk at Lenin Avenue, 53 (later Skaryna Avenue, now Independence Avenue), not far from Yakub Kolas Square. The entrance was easily recognizable by a distinctive metal sign — a cast-iron pot on a chain.
This cafe stood out for its artistic design. Simple plastered walls contrasted with a dark ceiling, overgrown with massive wooden beams, and decorative metal chandeliers. Particularly impressive were the large stoves, decorated with narrative glazed tiles: they served as unique serving windows between the kitchen and the dining hall. This entire ensemble created a recognizable late-Soviet, romanticized image of Belarusianness — not aristocratic, but noble.
The dining hall was furnished with massive wooden furniture — benches and tables covered with traditional embroidered towels. Waitresses served potato dishes in costumes with elements of national clothing, which added even more national flavor to the Bulbianyia.
Café "Bulbianyia" on Lenin Avenue in Minsk. 1980s. Photo from souvenir cards
They offered several dozen signature and national potato dishes: "Smazhanina" (Fried Dish) — potatoes with beef, pork, and onions, baked in a pan; "Prazhanina" (Stew) — potatoes with pork, mushrooms, vegetables, and prunes, served with wine sauce; "Tasty" salad — meat, vegetables, onions, and mushrooms in a basket of crispy fried potatoes, as well as "Broth with Potato Dumplings," "Belarusian Soup," "Potatoes in Their Jackets with Cucumber," "Belarusian Bouquet" assortment, "Peasant" and "Spicy" salads.
Interior of Café "Bulbianyia" on Lenin Avenue in Minsk. 1980s.
The cafe opened in 1958. However, an inspection conducted in 1962 by the public trade department of the district executive committee revealed, as the newspaper "Communist of Belarus" wrote, a very limited choice of first and second courses, their low caloric content, as well as rude treatment of visitors.
Café "Bulbianyia" on Lenin Avenue in Minsk. 1980s. Photo from souvenir cards
However, already in 1965, "Bulbianyia" was featured in the Moscow newspaper "Nedelya" in a positive light. The article published there stated that every guest of Minsk considered it their duty to visit "Bulbianyia," and the journalist sighed: "If only we had such a 'Bulbianyia' in Moscow."
In fact, a "Bulbianyia" eventually did appear in Moscow — a cafe with that name operates in the Belarusian pavilion of VDNKh.
Indeed, "Bulbianyia" transformed into a city landmark during Soviet times. Minsk residents would always bring guests from afar here — to treat them to national cuisine and show them a place where the national flavor was felt not only in the dishes but also in the atmosphere.
"Bulbianyia" on Independence Avenue in the 2000s. Photo: ru-travel.livejournal.com
In the mid-2000s, "Bulbianyia" was forced to close for a long, almost three-year renovation. As recalled in publications, the reason was an unplanned visit to the cafe by the capital's head Mikhail Pavlov, who decided to have lunch here with other city executive committee officials. The reception and what he saw in the kitchen outraged him. The renovated "Bulbianyia" reopened in 2008, but could not withstand the competition in such a busy location. In 2011, one of the cafes of the German chain "Shtolle" opened in its place.
"Bulbianyia" on Independence Avenue in 2010. Photo: Yandex Maps
Only the ceramic glazed tile at the entrance, which remained from the previous establishment, reminds us of the former "Bulbianyia". It features sculpted potatoes and the inscription: "Potatoes are tasty, healthy, nutritious, especially with lard."
Ceramic tile at the entrance to "Shtolle", commemorating the former "Bulbianyia". Photo: Telegram channel "Minsk and Minchanin"
In 2017, it was reported that the legendary "Bulbianyia" was planned to be restored at the site of the "Kryshtal" store on Independence Avenue, 39. The new owners spoke of the idea of a chain of Belarusian fast-food restaurants, which was also supported by the Minsk City Executive Committee. But the renovation dragged on, and as a result, a few years later, an optics store and OZ.by opened there, not a "Bulbianyia."
"Bulbianyia" on Mogilev Highway
"Bulbianyia" on Mogilev Highway in the 1960s. Photo: pastvu.com
This was not the only "Bulbianyia" in the capital. Somewhere in the first half of the 1960s, another cafe with that name appeared in another part of the city — on the then Mogilev Highway, opposite the Minsk Motorcycle and Bicycle Plant. Today, the building where it was located has the address Partizansky Avenue, 19. No traces remain of that "Bulbianyia": now a wine store, a bicycle parts store, and a small pizzeria operate on the ground floor of the building.
Characteristic sloping display windows — all that remains today of the "Bulbianyia" on Partizansky Avenue. Photo: Google Maps
In 1967, metropolitan newspapers also reported on the opening of a "Bulbianyia" on Apansky Street (now Kalvaryiskaya), but its exact location could not be determined.
"Bulbianyia" in Mogilev
"Bulbianyia" in the railway workers' building on Mira Avenue №25. 1965. Photo: Lisovsky Photo Archive
Minsk was not, as we already mentioned, the only place where one could find Bulbianyia (potato cafes). Mogilev also had its "Bulbianyia" cafe in the "railway workers' building" at Mira Avenue №25. The characteristic "Bulbianyia" sign can be seen above the built-in premises in the corner part of the building already in photos from the mid-1960s, almost immediately after the building's construction.
The location does not seem accidental, touristic — opposite the "Mogilev" hotel. But in fact, the hotel was built much later, only in 1972.
Today, the former cafe premises house a branded store of the Mogilev Meat Processing Plant. It is not exactly known when the "Bulbianyia" closed, but the city's encyclopedic guide for 1990 does not mention any catering establishments on this avenue.
The premises in the building at Mira Avenue №25, where "Bulbianyia" was formerly located. Photo: Yandex Maps
Among other things, this building is also known for being home to the family of the Russian-speaking writer Mikhail Veller: his father, an ophthalmologist by profession, headed a department of the Mogilev Psychiatric Hospital.
In 1976, another "Bulbianyia" appeared in a new residential area of Mogilev — in the building at Narodnoye Opolcheniye Street, 20. The cafe had an area of 123 m² and could accommodate 54 people simultaneously. Today, various grocery and clothing stores are located in this space.
"Bulbianyia" in Grodno
Café "Bulbianyia" in Grodno. Photo: Encyclopedic Guide to Cities of Belarus
Grodno also had its "Bulbianyia." The cafe was located on Komarov Street, 15, in the Forts-2 microdistrict. The Grodno Bulbianyia opened relatively late — only in 1982. The commercial area was 120 m², and the establishment could accommodate 80 people simultaneously in a self-service format. The menu included Belarusian national dishes and various potato dishes. There was even a fruit bar with 36 seats. The interiors were decorated with colored glass and wood carving.
Today, a school catering complex and a grocery store operate in this building.
Building on Komarov Street, 15 in Grodno, where the Bulbianyia was located. Photo: Yandex Maps
"Bulbianyia" in Brest
"Bulbianyia" in Brest. 1980s. Photo: brestcity.com
Even later, a "Bulbianyia" appeared in Brest, Belarus. The cafe opened only in 1986 on Moskovskaya Street, 39 (now Masherov Avenue). It was a rather large establishment: the commercial area was 240 m², and it could accommodate 100 people simultaneously. The menu, naturally, was dominated by Belarusian national potato dishes, but there was also a buffet with a wide assortment of confectionery and beverages of their own production, ice cream, milkshakes, as well as a bar with 14 seats.
Café "Bulbianyia" in Brest. 2009.
The Brest "Bulbianyia" existed for quite a long time — it was finally closed only in 2015 when reconstruction began. The new owner, the "Santa" company, planned to open a grocery store and a small cafeteria there. But as a result, in October 2016, a KFC restaurant opened in this location instead of a cafeteria.
KFC restaurant and "Santa Fish" store at the site of the former "Bulbianyia". Photo: Yandex Maps
"Bulbianyia" in Gomel
Building on Lenin Avenue 34, where the canteen-Bulbianyia was located. 1960s. Photo: Gomel City Executive Committee
In Gomel, "Bulbianyia" was located in a Stalin-era building on Lenin Avenue, 34, not far from the railway station. Along with specialized vareniki and pelmeni establishments, it was classified as a canteen. It is difficult to understand how exactly this establishment differed from the self-service cafes listed above. The further fate of the Gomel "Bulbianyia" is unknown.
"Bulbianyia" in Vitebsk
"Bulbianyia" in Vitebsk. 1962. Photo: "Vitebsky Rabochy"
In Vitebsk, the "Bulbianyia" cafe opened in November 1961, in the very center of the city, at the site of a vegetable store in the building on Gogolevskaya Street, 30 (now Lenin Street). At that time, the entrance was at street level: the pavement near the cafe sharply sloped down, and then just as sharply rose towards the modern Victory Square. This topographical feature earned the area the nickname "the pit."
Later, the landscape was corrected: the street was raised, and the entrance along with the cafe windows ended up at a semi-basement level.
Today, "Bulbianyia" in Vitebsk is located in a semi-basement. Photo: Wikimania
In the 1980s, the commercial area of the cafe, whose menu was dominated by Belarusian national potato dishes, was 72 m². It could accommodate more than 40 people simultaneously and operated on a self-service basis.
"When Gennady Lavitsky recalls Vitebsk, 'Bulbianyia' immediately comes to mind. 'Bulbianyia' is a canteen where potato dishes are served. Kartaflyaniki, bulbashy, draniki... And there's also potato porridge with lard. 'Babka' — in Belarusian. A clay pot with potatoes, cracklings, onions, parsley, caraway. And bay leaf. So you come in from the cold, hungry, frozen... you eat a pot of hot potatoes. And it's enough for a day!" — this is how the gastronomic preferences of the first ambassador to Israel and former chairman of the KGB of Belarus, who began his career in Vitebsk, were recalled in a tabloid book in the early 2000s.
"Bulbianyia" in Vitebsk has preserved its menu and Belarusian spirit in its interiors. Photo: Yandex Maps
Unlike many others, this cafe exists to this day and has not changed its profile — neither in menu nor in interior design. Here you can still see massive wooden furniture, beams under the ceiling, and decorative compositions with Belarusian ornaments on the walls.
Café "Bulbianyia" in Ivatsevichy
As can be seen, no "Bulbianyia" in regional centers have been preserved — the only exception is Vitebsk. However, in small towns, establishments with this name can still be found today: for example, in Drogichin, Zhitkovichi, and Ivatsevichy. The latter, by the way, features in one of the stories about Vladimir Vysotsky: the Soviet singer's car broke down on the Moscow-Brest highway, and he sought help at a local service station. When the problem was solved, Vysotsky went into the nearest Bulbianyia — located just twenty meters away — from where "an incredible smell of Belarusian draniki wafted." But he came out not with draniki or babka, but with a box of wine, which he gave to his rescuers.
Menu design for the "Bulbianyia" cafe in Bobruisk. Vitaly Gunin, 1985.
«Nasha Niva» — the bastion of Belarus
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