Fastening a suit jacket on all buttons is considered a major faux pas in the world of men's fashion. But where did this rule come from?
Photo: Ana Rocio Garcia Franco / Getty Images
One of the main requirements for a single-breasted men's suit jacket with two buttons is categorical: the bottom one must always be unbuttoned. According to many tailors and stylists, this makes the jacket look better, writes The New York Times.
As explained by Alan Flusser — a renowned tailor who dresses business elite representatives and author of the book "Dressing the Man" — the classic cut of a men's suit jacket is designed to accentuate the figure: to make the waist visually narrower, the legs longer, and the silhouette more slender. When only the top button is fastened, the fabric moves freely with the body, forming a neat natural line.
If the bottom button is also fastened, the jacket starts to pull in the hip area, the silhouette "breaks" and looks less elegant. Instead of lightness, a feeling of stiffness appears.
There is a popular legend that this rule was introduced by British King Edward VII. He began unbuttoning the bottom button of his jacket after gaining weight and feeling uncomfortable. The court and society quickly adopted the new habit, and it became an established norm.
Over time, this became such an accepted standard that modern jackets are now sewn with the expectation that the bottom button will not be used.
According to menswear critic Derek Guy, today the bottom button and its buttonhole are essentially rudimentary details, similar to the lapel buttonhole that once allowed a jacket to be fastened all the way up to the neck, or the tiny coin pocket on jeans.
Photo: Edward Berthelot / Getty Images
Nevertheless, the rule is not absolute. Sometimes people consciously break it — for example, to look more "put-together" or to hide certain figure peculiarities. But here's an important nuance: clothing is not just about comfort, but also about the signals you send to others.
For those who understand classic style, a fastened bottom button can be perceived as ignorance. Moreover, it can create the impression that the person is trying too hard to control their appearance — and this works against naturalness and confidence.
There is, however, one exception. In double-breasted jackets, the bottom button can be fastened — this does not violate aesthetics.
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Comments
Гэтае правіла ці забабон вядомы з дзяцінства ...школы гадоў 50))))
Калі сядзець так зручна ...