Weekend Route West of Minsk: The Spirit of Baroque, Unique Mosaics, and a Crossroads of Religions
If your soul yearns for a journey, but you only have a couple of days, Budzma.org offers an interesting route that passes through Ivianiec, Rubiaževičy, Subotniki, and Iŭje. Just head your car west from Minsk, where you'll find towns with powerful histories, mysteries, and breathtaking architecture.
Ivianiec. View of the town from the Volma River. Photo: vedaj.by
Ivianiec: The Red Church and the Spirit of Baroque
From Minsk, we head along the Hrodna highway towards Ivianiec, famous for its churches and pottery.
Ivianiec is often called the "city of masters." Once, local pottery was distributed throughout Europe, and today the town attracts tourists with its majestic temples and an atmosphere of tranquility.
Ivianiec is the former capital of a county in historical Minsk region, for which land symbolism was developed for the first time in the country.
The local "White" Church (Church of St. Michael the Archangel) of the 18th century is a true masterpiece of Vilnian Baroque. The snow-white church with two high towers looks very light and majestic. Nearby is a functioning Franciscan monastery.
Church of St. Michael the Archangel. Photo: bel.wikipedia.org
Ivianiec's "White" Church is considered one of the most photogenic in Belarus. It is located in the center of the town, at the corner of the historic Vilnian and Zaklyashtarnaya streets, on the right bank of the Volma River.
Interior of the temple. Image: bel.wikipedia.org
The "Red" Church (Church of St. Alexei) was built at the beginning of the 20th century in Neo-Gothic style. Red brick, sharp spires, and a quiet surroundings make it an excellent place for photo shoots.
Church of St. Alexei. Photo: bel.wikipedia.org
It's worth visiting the Museum of Traditional Culture. Here you can not only see the famous Ivianiec pottery but also take part in a master class. This is the heart of the town's craft life. You can bring home a unique clay product made using ancient technologies.
In Ivianiec, fragments of farm buildings and the Plievaky manor house have been preserved, allowing a glimpse into the life of the petty gentry and former local intelligentsia. A branch of the Ivianiec Museum of Traditional Culture operates in the building of the former stable.
Remains of the Plievaky manor. Photo: vedaj.by.
In recent times, Ivianiec was famous for its confectionery factory. Since the days of the local confectionery factory "Iukon" (bankrupted in 2019), a tradition of holding a confectionery festival emerged in Ivianiec, where one could taste and buy local sweets, especially the famous "Korovka" (Little Cow candy).
Rubiaževičy: A Symbol of Border and Durability
After Ivianiec, we recommend heading to Rubiaževičy, home to one of Belarus's most unusual churches.
Rubiaževičy from above. Photo: planetabelarus.by
The local Church of St. Joseph looks as if it was transplanted here from the center of a large European city — severe, powerful Neo-Gothic made of hewn stone. The main legend of Rubiaževičy is connected with the church. Local resident Antony Tur dreamed of building a church in his town, but the tsarist authorities, after the 19th-century uprisings, strictly forbade the construction of Catholic churches.
Antony Tur walked three times (!) to Tsar Nicholas II to get permission. It is said that he placed a huge stone in the field with the inscription: "A Catholic church will be built here." For this, he was even sent into exile, but he did not give up. When a decree on religious tolerance was issued in 1905, permission was finally granted. No less impressive than the church is the massive stone gate, which looks majestic and austere.
Church of St. Joseph. Photo: bel.wikipedia.org
The church was built in just 4 years (1906-1910). This was a national project: people themselves transported stones, hewed them, and donated their last money. The temple looks very monumental due to the use of hewn natural stone (boulders). This makes it resemble a medieval castle. Two towers, 45 meters high, are visible for many kilometers from the town. The facade is adorned with niches, rose windows, and pilasters. Stone is combined with red brick, creating a very stylish contrast.
Since 1875, Rubiaževičy has been home to a herbal medicine pharmacy, famous throughout the country. To this day, they prepare blends according to unique recipes.
Building of the herbal pharmacy. Photo: myplaces.by
In the town, there is an interesting natural-philosophical location — a park of stones, where each boulder has its own symbolism. 46 boulders — that's how many stones are installed in the square. The name of a village that once belonged to the local parish is carved on each stone. The stones are arranged in the form of diverging rays, symbolizing the roads leading to the temple. Stones for the construction of the church and fence were brought by local residents on horseback.
Boulders near the church. Photo: vedaj.by
This was an act of national unity: everyone considered it their duty to bring the largest and most beautiful boulder from their field.
Subotniki: Neo-Gothic and Eternal Peace
The next stop is Subotniki. Local legends say that the name Subotniki comes from the word "subota" (Saturday) or, more precisely, the Saturday fairs that were held here. There is also a version of the name's origin from the surname Subatovič.
The town was founded by representatives of the renowned Umastouski family. They loved Italy very much, which is why the church looks extremely refined and resembles Italian temples in its features. Uladzislau Umastouski was a true patron. He didn't just build — he invested in the education of local residents and the development of agriculture.
Inside the church, unique mosaics have been preserved, which were a rarity for rural temples of that time. The local landscape, which blends with the Neo-Gothic architecture, adds to the effect.
The Umastouski underground crypt is one of the most impressive parts of the temple. Beneath the church is a family burial vault, whose decoration could compete with the crypts in Nesvizh.
Church of St. Vladislaus and the Umastouski Crypt. Photo: bel.wikipedia.org
The crypt walls are laid with Venetian mosaic and marble — demonstrating the family's wealth and influence. The Umastouskis wanted to transform Subotniki (and neighboring Žamyslaŭĺ) into a true cultural center.
Subotniki should be visited together with Žamyslaŭĺ, which is very close by. Subotniki was the "spiritual" center of the estate, while Žamyslaŭĺ was the "secular" one.
Iŭje: Crossroads of Religions
The final destination of the journey is Iŭje. A town often called the most tolerant in the country.
Iŭje. Photo: vedaj.by
The history of Iŭje is a unique experience of the coexistence of different religions. In the very center of the town stands a monument in honor of four confessions. It consists of four stelae, each facing its respective temple: Orthodox, Catholic, Muslim, and Jewish.
Monument of Four Religions. Photo: vedaj.by
The monument is a good metaphor for tolerance. People of different faiths lived together here for centuries, went to the same market, and defended their town.
Iŭje is considered the unofficial capital of Belarusian Tatars.
Tatar cemetery in Iŭje. Photo: bel.wikipedia.org
Here is one of Belarus's oldest and most beautiful wooden mosques (1884).
Mosque in Iŭje. Photo: bel.wikipedia.org
The construction of the mosque was financed by Elfrida Zamoyska, the then owner of the town. With money from Tatar emigrants, who sent $500 from the USA in 1922, the minaret and gallery were added.
The mosque never closed, even during Soviet times!
Another interesting fact is that in the 16th century, Iŭje was a center of Arianism (a radical current of the Reformation). An Arian school operated here, where teaching was on par with European universities. Among its graduates and teachers were famous intellectuals of that time (for example, Jan Licynius Namysłowski).
Now, near the Church of Saints Peter and Paul, stands a statue of Christ, somewhat resembling the famous figure in Rio de Janeiro.
Statue of Christ in Iŭje. Photo: vedaj.by
The church itself and the Bernardine monastery are examples of "Vilnian Baroque" with a very rich history, starting from the 15th century.
Church of Saints Peter and Paul. Photo: bel.wikipedia.org
Before World War II, more than half of Iŭje's population was Jewish. Synagogue buildings (now cultural institutions) and old residential stone houses have been preserved. Unfortunately, most of the local Jews perished during the Holocaust in the local ghetto.
Building of the former synagogue, early 20th century. Photo: bel.wikipedia.org
The local modern highlight of Iŭje is the annual "Iŭje Tomato" festival, which combines ancient gardening traditions with modernity in the form of a vibrant celebration.
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